Adventures in Russell-land – Part II

The Bodelian Library is a must for anyone who is devoted to the Mary Russell mysteries, and traveling with Merrily, the former head librarian at Brown University, opens doors that might otherwise be barred. She knew the current librarian of the Bodley back in the day, and it only took an email to arrange a private tour. Although Merrily’s friend was out of town she had kindly arranged for one of her staff to show us the beautiful exterior, and the impressive interior of the buildings that make up the old and new libraries. (Click on photo to enlarge.)
bridge-of-sighs
Everything in Oxford seems to have been there forever, but new somehow, certainly not dated or simply old. There is a feeling of vitality on the streets – this town, inhabited and driven by its thousands of students and dons, virtually hums with life. Oxford is known as the town of spires and dreams and one can see why, even in the rain. Most of the major buildings are constructed of local stone that has a yellow cast, and it seems to glow even on a rainy day. One can only imagine what it would look like on a sunny day. Seeing it in the rain was impressive enough.
toward-trinity-college
We walked out of our hotel in a drizzly rain, and dodging the somber, pinch-faced students as they hurried off to their exams, we set out for Broad St. to meet our guide for the arranged for tour. Many of the streets in the center of Oxford have been closed off to traffic and made into promenades, which is a good thing for all the walkers and cyclists, but it forces the other streets to carry more car traffic than they might have otherwise, and leads to some pretty severe congestion. As I stated before, walking in Oxford is a far superior way to see the city, and, one must add, to keep one from tearing your hair out trying to negotiate the narrow roads, one way and dead end streets that provide no way to turn around.
broad-st

A few short blocks and a turn or two, and we were on Broad Street strolling past Balliol (Lord Peter’s college) on our left, and then Trinity College. Frankly you can’t walk more than a block without seeing one famous college or another.
balliol-college

The Bodleian is made up of the Old and the New Buildings and separated by Broad Street, but joined by underground tunnels that pass under the street. Standing in front of the new library looking toward the old you see the Sheldonian, an odd almost u-shaped building with a small cupola topped by a green roof that seems oddly out of place by its diminutive scale next to the imposing buildings around it.

the-sheldonian
Our guide took us first into the Old Schools quadrangle to view the statue of Duke Humfrey, whose books made up the first library, and prompted the building of Duke Humfrey’s Library above the Divinity School. It is an impressive space in the shape of a T with hand-painted and carved, wooden vaulted ceilings and wooden shelves and reading benches, where once the books were chained to metal rods where they could be taken down and moved along the rod to a space for the reader to sit down and open the book on the reading table. They removed the chains long ago, but keep one to show the visitors. Everything is hushed tones and no photography in Duke Humfrey’s Library, with a stern faced guard on duty, who glowers if you even look like you might try to snap a shot.

convocation-house

Down several flights of stairs, and out the back and we were ushered into the Convocation house, where Charles I held Parliament during the English civil war. It is quite an impressive space. Sir Christopher Wren put a door in on the side facing the Sheldonian so the procession from one building to the other would be less cumbersome.

wrens-door-and-bodley

We were eventually taken down into the lower stacks where millions of books are shelved, and we were shown how they are retrieved and sent to the various reading rooms. It is still a very labor-intensive procedure, using people and a very old continuous chain system, no computerized method at the Bodelian, except for the ordering of the books. Even this is not complete throughout the library as slips ordering books and manuscripts to the Humfrey’s Library are still handwritten and conveyed by pneumatic tubes. At the end of our tour we found we were near the Radcliffe Camera, a quite distinctive building that resembles a domed cathedral. It was built through the bequest of a physician and named in his honor, and now functions as one of the Bodleian’s many reading rooms. Although it was pouring rain by now we couldn’t help but gawk at the Bridge of Sighs, and the quad of the Radcliffe Camera. Getting wet is nothing when surrounded by such impressive buildings.

radcliffe-camera-from-quad

The only way to really “see” Oxford is to take to the heights, so we paid a small fee to climb up to the cupola on top the Sheldonian where you have a 360 degree view of the city.

radcliffe-camera-over-bodley

We climbed down with sore legs and an appreciation for Oxford that will be with us forever.

Comments

  1. Laidee Marjorie says:

    Beautiful! Thank you very much for brining us all with you to Oxford.

    Is there a photo of one of the desk areas where Russell did/does her studying?

    I hope they are many more chapters to come in your travel journal.

    –Marjorie

  2. Bill Mosteller says:

    This is sooooo cool, thanks.

  3. La Donna says:

    I’ll bet Mary Russell uses the Bodleian’s web site: http://www.ouls.ox.ac.uk/bodley

  4. Pat Floyd says:

    An absolutely wonderful tour. Thank you so much for sharing this trip with us.

  5. Strawberry Curls says:

    Sadly, Marjorie, they do not allow photography in the reading rooms, so no pictures of desks in a secluded corner. I’m so glad everyone is enjoy this account of the trip.

  6. Lovely, lovely, lovely. Thank you so much for sharing your visit with us.

  7. Wonderful word pictures! Thank you so much for sharing!

  8. vickivanv says:

    *Swoons* I spent several weeks in Oxford one summer as an undergrad and long to return and take in those beautiful sights once more. Thank you so much for letting us go along for the ride. *Smiles beatifically* How wonderful that you got to tour the Bodleian! Wow! I’m sure Miss Russell goes there for research every now and then. Maybe she has a young assistant to help her. *Imagination goes into overdrive*

  9. This was absolutely lovely. Oxford and the Bodleian are definitely on my list of places to see. Thank you so much!

  10. Melissa says:

    Hello Laurie King,

    Can you please help me. I am still waiting for my Sherlock Holmes ‘Practical Handbook of Bee Culture, with some Observations upon the Segregation of the Queen” and honey for donating to the Heifer Int. I have not heard from your assistant Zoe in weeks and I am becoming very concerned. I donated in good faith back in April and emailed your site (Zoe responded) right away about the $30.00 glitch (which I did 2 donations of $30.00, for a total of $60.00) and was told that everything would be taken care of. It was not. I am also concerned that if the Heifer people messed up with my donation, they also messed up with my name being sent in for your drawing to be in your next book. Zoe should have all my information, but if not please let me know and I can send all of it again.

    Best,
    Melissa Aho

  11. Carol Hulse says:

    I just finished the Language of Bees and can’t wait for the next book to be published! I just love your books in the Mary Russell series!
    This one was just so exceptional.
    Thank you,
    Carol

  12. Merrily says:

    Alice, a masterful job of recounting our experiences in Oxford! One thing there wasn’t time to mention is that Blackwell’s, the great Oxford bookshop, is right around the corner, and we managed to spend some time there (as I’m sure Russell does). Merrily

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